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The Process
Most of us have no idea what these relaxers really do to our black
hair... how they actually go about the process of straightening. There
are two types of relaxers. They are SODIUM HYDROXIDE (lye-based) and
GUANIDINE HYDROXIDE (no-lye). Although the no-lye products are thought
to be less damaging, both types are harmful to the black hair because in
order to straighten it, they must first strip it of its natural moisture
and then break down the structure of the black hair.
Let me briefly explain. The natural black hair has two bonds, a physical
bond and a chemical bond, referred to as the S and H bonds. These bonds
create the S-shaped kink or curl in African-American hair. Chemically
processing the hair changes the molecular structure by breaking down
these bonds... thereby damaging the hair. Once the bonds are broken, the
hair loses its natural shape and elasticity, and can then be manually
formed into straight hair. The changed S-shape bond can never be
returned to its original healthy form. It has undergone a permanent
change caused by chemical damage.
Natural Black Hair Damage
Sodium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide both have a very high pH
factor, meaning they are highly alkaline products. When applied to the
black hair, they immediately strip it of all moisture, because any
retention of moisture would reduce the effectiveness of the straightener.
This is why a deep-conditioning treatment is always applied to the hair
after the chemical process. These treatments are designed to drive
moisture back into the hair shaft and to coat the black hair strand to
make it look shiny and appear healthy, or in other words -- to
camouflage the damage. But no black hair that has undergone a chemical
relaxer is healthy. It’s been purposely and permanently damaged by the
chemicals... and black hair can’t be damaged and healthy at the same
time.
Relaxed black hair is always dry. This is why we’re constantly putting
something on it.. oiling our hair and scalp two or three times a week.
There are several reasons for this: 1) Start with the moisture-stripping
process of the chemical relaxer that I spoke about in the above
paragraph; 2) Add the steady regimen of hot-comb touch-ups, curling
irons & flat irons (all work with heat which is drying to the hair) and
hair sprays and styling/holding gels, (these contain alcohol which is
drying to the hair). The natural oils our scalps produce can’t serve our
hair’s needs. The scalp can’t manufacturer enough natural moisture to
replenish the moisture we’re stripping from our hair on a daily basis;
and 3) The products we usually use in an attempt to fight dryness
(usually petroleum-based products, or "grease") don’t really add
moisture to the black hair at all. They simply coat the hair with
petroleum to provide shine. At the same time, they clog the pores of the
scalp so that the scalp can’t secrete its own natural moisture.
I always thought black hair either doesn’t grow as fast as Caucasian
hair – or doesn’t grow at all. WRONG! All hair grows at the same rate –
on average ˝ inch per month. But the reason that most black women have
shorter hair is because of breakage. Why does the hair break? Because of
the harsh treatment we give it. We strip it of its moisture in every way
we possibly can! So after a period of time (short for some, a little
longer for others) the need for a cut to camouflage the damage done to
your hair will become evident. When your stylist suggests a “designer
cut” (like the fade), that's your cue that your black hair has had
enough.
Skin Absorption
In addition to the damage done to the hair by these chemicals, we should
remember that the process involves more than simply straightening the
hair above the scalp. Chemicals are absorbed through the skin into the
tissue, cells, and blood stream. We rub creams and lotions on our skin
-- knowing that the skin will absorb them and be moisturized by them.
The medical industry administers drugs through skin absorption -- like
the patches for smoking, sea-sickness, and birth control. The skin
absorbs everything; and as strong as these chemicals are – causing sores
and abrasions on the scalp – why wouldn’t some of it be absorbed through
the skull and possibly into the brain?
Causticity
The instructions on the relaxer boxes always say to wear gloves --
because the chemicals are caustic, however it is applied directly to the
hair and scalp and left there for a period of time. Women experience
burns and scabs from the toxic chemicals, and yet they continue to go
back every few weeks for their regular dose of this creamy crack. The
FDA banned the manufacture of household liquid drain cleaners that have
a higher than 10 percent solution of Sodium Hydroxide because it
corrodes drain pipes. Because it is so strong, it may cause dermatitis
of the scalp. If left on the hair more than 10 minutes, it will dissolve
the hair, causing it to tear easily and become fragile and limp. Would
anyone put this cream on their face, or on their arm, and leave it there
for 10 or 15 minutes? Then why put it on your head?
Inhalation
And then there are the fumes. A study done by the Cancer Surveillance
program at the University California School of Medicine found the number
of cases of blood cancer to be excessive for females in the occupations “cosmetologist, hairdressers, and manicurist.” Dyes, shampoos,
conditioners, relaxers, permanent wave solutions, nail antiseptics,
fungi, and bacteria are the suspect causes of this. Although the study
does not specifically look for race in the findings, it is known that
blacks in these beauty occupations typically have higher rates of blood
cancer. Also, frequent inhalation of this chemical can lead to lung
damage.
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The Natural hair relaxer formula raises the alkalinity (ph) of
the hair causing it to soften and loosen the curl texture.
The active ingredients are natural.
The Natural hair relaxer is made with minerals, vitamins, amino
acids, nut butters, essential oils, emulsifiers, wax, and water.
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